All The Trimmings
If it moves, shimmers or glitters while you walk, then wear it. From Saint Laurent’s cloud of a dress covered
in white ostrich feathers and softshouldered coats shot through with sequins and floral embroidery
at Dries van Noten and Rochas, to the swish of all-over fringed dresses at Celine and Balmain,
designers have embraced lavish detail, turning catwalks into parades of exotic birds. This is fashion as its most frivolous, fully expressing its function of beautiful escapism: even should the world burn, dance like a phoenix.
Fashion’s yen for transforming wardrobe staples into items of pure beauty continues apace.
This year, it’s the turn of the trench coat, originally developed as an alternative to the heavy greatcoats
of the First World War. Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen offers a trench delicately threaded with black rose embroidery while Celine’s capecoat was joined at the hem to create a garment of almost highwayman-like romance. But it was John Galliano at the original house of deconstruction Martin Margiela who won this particular
game: slicing trenches with feathers, splicing them with mirrored squares and cinching them at the waist with crimson kimono belts.
Denim tends to resurface as days get longer but, in 2018, ditch easy Californian vibes in favour of dark tailored denim. Tom Ford’s sharp jacket (worn with matching bra and trousers) is cut with broad, wing tip shoulders, inspired by the designer’s 1980s heyday, while enormous turn-ups complete MaxMara’s sleek all-in-one.
At Versace, Westernstyle shirts are paired with gold lace and leaf print ball skirts.
But it’s Mugler’s denim corset top that takes the play of opposites to a delicious extreme. The key styling tips?
Wear denim over denim and keep collars buttoned high.
Earlier this year, with the immortal words “I don’t think it’s still modern,” Gucci’s CEO Marco Bizzarri
announced that the luxury label was going furfree, joining others including Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein,
Vivienne Westwood and longtime eco stalwart Stella McCartney. Animal lovers the world over have let
out a huge sigh of relief. Gucci’s decision represents a monumental step in ethical fashion, as shoppers clock
onto some of the world’s most pressing challenges – of energy, of waste, of pollution, of human and animal rights.
Sales of ethical clothing in the UK alone were up by 22.4 per cent in 2017 in a sector worth £36
million, according to Triodos Bank and Ethical Consumer. In short, seekers of vegan leather boots,
organic cotton t-shirts and recycled plastic board shorts: go wild.